The GT Mach One BMX bike is complete and ready to race right out of the box. One race is all it takes to plant the seed of wanting a podium finish. Whether you're new to the sport or looking to up your game to the next level, the 2021 Race bikes from GT are a perfect fit. Strong stiff and light, they are built ready to train and secure that win
Frame: 6061-T6 Aluminum, Euro Bottom Bracket, Reverse Dropouts
Fork: GT BMX Race, Hi-Ten Steel 1-1/8 steerer, 3/8" dropouts
Headset: 1-1/8" integrated 45 x 45 degree sealed bearings
Stem: GT Top Load 1" 40mm
Bars: GT Race, Steel, 6.5" High x 26" Wide, 8° Back, 4° Up, 19mm O.D. Cross Bar
Grips: GT Statement
Crancks: GT Alloy forged 3 Piece 165mm, square taper
Bottom Bracket: Threaded square type
Pedals: GT Mini size platform, PP material
Chain: KMC S1
Chainring: BCD100, 38T Steel Chainring, 5-bolt
Front Hub: Steel body (28H). 3/8" axle
Rear Hub: Steel flip flop thread-on body, freewheel, (28H), 3/8" axle
Rims: 28H Alloy double Wall
Spokes: Stainless Spokes, 14g
Cog Set: 16T freewheel
Tires: Kenda Race, 20 x 1-3/8"
Seat: GT Uni Mini Padded
Seat Post: Alloy 22.2 Integrated
Seat Clamp: TBA
Lever: Alloy V-type
Brakes: Alloy V-type
Headtube Angle: 73°
Seattube Angle: 70°
BB Height: 11.5"
Sizing Guideline: 4'8"-5'4"
Need help building your complete bike? Check out our bike build video below.
NOTE: To ensure that every component on your bicycle is working properly, Dans Comp recommends that all bikes be assembled by a qualified mechanic. Improper assembly of your bicycle may lead to premature wear or failure of individual components such as headsets, crank assembly and wheels. Failure to do so may void the manufacturer warranty.
My daughter already busted the left pedal and crank arm. I can't get replacement parts from GT, so I'm ordering a new crankset and re-gearing it to my daughter. The crankset and arms are the weak part of this bike. The crankset components don't seem to be any better than what comes on a Mongoose from the big box.
Update: I got a Promax Sq-1 crank with 165mm arms. The arms are too fat. In fact every crank arm I found is too fat and strikes the chainstay. I'll need a new bottom bracket with wider spacing or grind the arms. After a few practices some pieces are falling apart like a department store bike. The frame and wheels/tires are the only good parts. The drivetrain has to be completely replaced if you plan to make any changes. Actually if you buy this bike go ahead and order a new BB and crankset with it. Left arm came off easy. Right arm threads stripped as soon as the puller started to work. So now I have to get a ball joint fork and bust it off. The crankset is absolute junk on this bike.